Welcome to the MK Planet tips page. Here you will find tips and strategies designed to help enhance your MK game playing capabilities. A few of the tips and strategies you'll find here come from my own experience playing the game, however, the majority of information here comes from other resources provided by fellow MKers websites.
Credit for contributions to the MK Community and information used here go to:
Genie; GBO; Mokeman; Spook; Rimfire; Phred; and Spinal Meltdown.
Note: The first recommendation I have for newcomers is, play the in game tutorial. It will help explain the general basics about the game!
The MK Beginners Guide found here will open in a new window, all other tips links (below) are contained within this page.
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The first thing to do is to decide what type of game you want to play. Game turn times range from classic 8's - classic 72's (classic means the turn time is set, and will "roll over" every 8 - 72 hours depending on the time selected) to quick 8's - quick 72's (quick means the turn time will roll over according to the time selected or when the last player to enter a turn ends his/her turn. If you know you'll only be able to sit down and play every 2 to 3 days you'll want to choose a classic 48 - 72 or a quick 48 - 72 so as not to get skipped (missing even one turn can mean the diference between winning or losing).
Now select a map. I personally recommend larger maps with lots of resources for newer players to allow yourself time to learn some strategies of the game first. Avoid games on small maps with to many players, as everyone will be crowded with no room for expansion before the battle begins. You may also want to avoid playing a 1 on 1 game on a larger sized map because it may take several turns to reach each other before the war can even start. After you choose a map, I highly recommend playing the map on a local game to practice your opening moves before playing on the server.
*Did you know*
- That turn 0 will always run the full time for the game (ie... a quick 72 will always run the full 72 hours on turn 0) except in a dual (1 on 1) game, this is especially useful for games with Peace Treaties enabled!
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Placing your base is one of the most critical aspects of the game! Select a location that will give you access to as many cities and resources as possible on turn 0 (the first turn of the game). Most players will lay their base directly next to a city or mine, which gives you the advantage of expanding without wasted movement. The disadvantage of placing next to a resource is if your opponent gets to your base he has a place in which to "stack" units to achieve a maximum surround bonus (surround bonuses are discussed further in the Offense section), thus making it easier to kill you.
Pay particular attention to expansion possibilities and anything which may block your expansion such as mountains or skulls.
Always place next to roads and farms as this allows you to step out of your base utilizing only 1 movement point instead of 2 or 3 which you'd use stepping onto grass, woods, desert, or snow.
If the map you're playing on has lots of waterways consider laying your base on a coastline allowing instant access to the water. This is especially important if shipwrecks are turned on as you'll want to get to these as soon as possible.
Always try to place your base in a location that will give you plenty of time to expand before you meet up with another player and have to go to war. This of course depends a lot on the battlefield.
*Did you know*
- You can place your base on top of a farm!
- You can Zoom in and Zoom out by pressing the ‘I’ KEY for in the ‘O’ KEY for out!
- You can scroll across the map faster by holding the ‘CTRL’ KEY when using the ‘arrow’ KEYS!
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Expansion is another extremely critical factor in this game (expansion is discussed in much greater detail in the MK Beginners Guide)! It is very important to expand as much as you can as quickly as you can. Utilize transports, soldiers, bulldozers, and trucks for your initial expansion by entering your base and loading the units into your transport for movement. Take over cities with your soldiers and utilize the bulldozer to build roads where necessary and to take over resources, and use the truck inside your transport to mine the resources. You can then step the truck out of the transport into a city to sell the resources. You can also use cargo's on water maps, and cargos are also capable of moving through cities and resources you own that are stringed together in a row.
Don't be afraid of selling units before all of their movement points are used up to help in initial expansion (again discussed in greater detail in the MK Beginners Guide).
Plan your movements keeping in mind what you are wanting to achieve in the following turns. I've also found it best to move units one step at a time rather than clicking on the destination and allowing the computer to move your units there for you. Often times you can select a better route than the computer or may accidentally skip over something important by allowing the computer to move your units.
Don't buy Alpha Warriors for expansion! These are mostly useless units and are only good for purposes such as needing a unit with one more movement than the soldier to take over a strategic position.
Definately try to get techs as quickly as possible! You'll need them as the game progresses!
After turn 0 begin creating "transportation chains" by moving one transport right up behind another transport that you sent out earlier in the game. This allows you to move units from one transport to another to aid in furthering your expansion.
When planning your expansion keep in mind the number of movement points the different types of terrain will cost you. Bases, cities, mines and farms cost 1 movement point. Grass costs 2 movement points. Woods, desert, and snow costs 3 movement points. Roads cost 1 movement point and trails (roads which go through desert and snow squares) cost 2 movement points. Coastal squares (squares partially covered with water) cost 2 movement points.
Play games against players that are better than you! This gives you the opportunity to enter the game, and view what a more experienced player has accomplished, then exit the game (always by clicking the end turn button) and try to match (or better) their expansion in local mode. This is a great exercise to use to help enhance your own playing ability!
*Did you know*
- You can load units into transportation units in the City and Base screens. This is done by clicking on the desired unit and dragging it into or out of a transportation unit!
- With the use of a bulldozer ground units can cross water squares. As long as there is a road in an adjacent square you can move a bulldozer onto an Ocean square and build a road across the water!
- MK is coded so that roads built in squares diagonally adjacent to one another will cause another road square to be built so as to link them together!
- You can build a road along a transition square and it will cause all of the adjacent squares to turn into a road.
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It is very common (and a very good idea) to at least sign peace with those furthest away from you in the game to take advantage of the extra income. If someone offers you peace they are not offering you an alliance. Keep in mind that once they are within striking range they will likely break the peace treaty, pay the penalty (it costs $200 - $300 to break peace) and attack you.
When accepting peace or offering peace make sure to come back into the game as often as possible on turn 0 (remember turn 0 always runs the full time) to utilize the peace money to further your expansion or purchase tech's. This strategy can sometimes give you great advantages over your opponents.
Never offer peace in a 1 on 1 game as your opponent can use this against you by not accepting the peace treaty until just before you are preparing to attack them, forcing you to spend twice the amount made on the peace treaty to continue with your attack plans!
Make peace with everyone for $100 (you do not have to have $100 to do this). The only people you do not want to make peace with are ones that you expect may crowd you or any player's that you may want to attack very early in the game.
In the case of somebody crowding you, it is a very bad idea to sign peace with them as they can then put flags and units around your base, forcing you to break the treaty just to get out of your own base and protect your empire.
*Did you know*
- You can see what's happening in the game before accepting a peace offer by hitting the ‘Cancel’ button!
- If the opponent you're preparing to attack is three times bigger than you it will not cost you any money to break peace. It is considered a revolution instead!
- When a player breaks peace with you, then you are entitled to some cash. You get the value of the treaty, so if you sign for $100, then you get $100 when that agreement is broken!
- For either side to break a peace treaty you must pay the UN twice the amount of money you received or even 3 times if your have twice the number of cities your opponent holds!
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There are four factors involved in making money from cities. These factors are food quantity, population level, tax rate and banks. Each is of varying relevance and the correct approach to each is required to reap the maximum benefit from your cities.
First the quantity of food in a city must be taken into consideration as it has a great bearing on whether a city makes you money or costs you money. For example, if taxes are to low in a city, the population grows, and you end up wasting more money purchasing farms, than what the city is making for you. On the other hand, as your cities population goes down you are losing critical money from taxes. Two important factors to keep in mind, with respect to making money, is that buying farms to feed your cities costs you a lot of money, and that if your population drops below 1000 you don't have to feed the population in that city at all as they consume no food. The purchasing of farms and your cities population can be controled by utilizing a proper taxation strategy (which is covered in greater detail in the Tax Strategies section).
Second the population level of a city must be considered. This is because the population of a city has a huge bearing as to how much food is required by the city, how much money you get in taxes, and how much money is returned from banks. Essentially, the higher the population of the city, the greater the returns you can expect from it.
Third is the tax rate applied to a city (again this is covered in greater detail in the Tax Strategies section). A successful tax strategy can allow you to maintain income from a city, without purchasing farms, by causing flexuations to the cities population.
Fourth is the purchase of banks. Banks are a fairly expensive investment ($40) and require a substantial amount of time to pay off. Specifically, you're only make $2 per 1000 population. Obviously, this is not something to put in every city! Even putting it in a new metropolis may be a bit of a waste of your money considering that a population of 5000 will produce $10/turn, meaning that it will take 4 turns just to get your money back.
*Did you know*
- You can change a City's Name, making it possible to personalize your empire and give the city a name that will help you to locate it easily!
- Every city has a ‘Keep’ button. When this button is down, the city’s tax rate is left unaltered when using the Set Tax Rate action (the T key). This is very useful to keep a city’s population below 1,000 or growing quickly while changing all other cities taxes at once!
- A bank cannot produce income exceeding $20!
- When you buy a farm it will usually end up in the square to the right of the city it is bought in and further farms, purchased in that city, will show up clockwise around the city!
- If a farm is adjacent to two or more different cities, it supplies one unit of food to each city and counts against each city for the number of farms when purchasing new Farms.
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The best resource is the gold mine, which produces $15 per turn, next the wood mill and oil field, which produces $10 per turn, and last the ore mine, which produces $5 per turn.
If you have Resources, then you must collect the income from them or your opponent will.
It is inadvisable to assign trucks! Assigning trucks will cost you a lot of money, and if your opponent takes that resource he will not have to buy a truck to collect the income from that resource. It's best to have a transport/truck combo to collect your resources, it's cheaper and you can load the truck while it's inside the transport, then step the truck out of the transport into a city to sell the resources (this also works with cargos and herc's).
The only times to consider assigning trucks to mines is in a pod map or a rediculously large map such as "Sweet Thunder". When you have clustered mines and no nearby cities, assign a truck to one mine and use another truck (or truck/transport) to unload the resources from the rest of the mines into the assigned mine. Other than that, avoid assigning trucks at all costs.
You can purchase factories in your resource mines. A factory for a resource costs $25 for ore, $50 for wood/oil, and $75 for gold, and doubles the production of the mine it is built in. It is not highly advisable to purchase factories for resources, due to the time it will take for the investment to pay off, unless you are playing a game which will last several turns (or perhaps on a very large and wealthy map).
*Did you know*
- A truck cannot transport two different kinds of ore at once!
- You can fill up two trucks in one transport without unloading the first one. After one truck is loaded with minerals, and provided that you ARE NOT the last player to play the turn, you can then exit the game and re-enter, that will reverse the order of the trucks and will allow the second truck to be loaded!
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Utilizing a good taxation strategy can mean the difference between a win or a loss. In fact, effective utilization of a tax strategy can give you gains between 50% and 100% more income from your cities.
100-89-88-75-63-50-45 Strategy:
First set all taxes to 100% by pressing "T" on the keyboard, enter the new tax rate and click OK.
Go into the ML (management lab) by pressing "V" on the keyboard.
Setting the 89% Tax rate.
Click on the REV tab.
Select all the cities with a population over 1100 and making $8 or more and set the tax to 89%.
Setting 88% Tax rate.
Select all cities less than $8 and change to 88%.
Setting 75% Tax rate.
Select all cities less than $7 and change to 75%.
Setting 63% Tax rate.
Select all cities less than $6 and change to 63%.
Setting 45% Tax rate.
Select all cities less than $5 and change to 45%.
Note: The reason is that some of the cities with 45% will give you $4 income and its the same as the 50% tax but with a better population growth for the next turn.
Setting 50% Tax rate.
Select all cities less than $4 and change to 50%.
There are a few other taxation strategies around, such as Auverne's Taxation Strategy, so check out some of the other MKers websites (check the MK Links page), and play around with the taxes a little to try to find what you think works best.
*Did you know*
- By reducing a city's population with a good tax strategy keeps the need to buy costly farms down, plus you can average $6 or more per city for the first 3-4 turns!
- If you are playing on a very slow map with plenty of farms, you can safely build population, by alternating between a very high rate, such as 80% - 100%, and 0%!
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You cannot know the best time to build a university if you don't even know what you are building it for. Building a new university just because you want to is usually not the best reason. Instead, you need to determine if the price you outlay for the university is going to be a good investment or not. Determining if the purchase of a particular university is going to be a good investment or not is a matter of analysis.
Taking a look at the advanced units we can see they can be categorized in two different ways: As Expansion or War units and as Key and Non-Key units. Expansion units are valuable for their ability to allow you to capture more cities (Panther), capture wrecks (Sharks), move your units faster (Hercules), and War units are all of the other units. Key Units are those that will greatly improve your ability to expand and/or wage war. Non-key units are those that are not greatly useful (and hence should not be purchased unless necessary to achieve some special goal, succeed in some special tactic, or to get one of the Key universities).
Key Expansion Techs: Panther, Hercules, and Shark if in a game with wrecks enabled.
Key War Techs: M-31/Elf, Commando, Stryker/Tiger, Grizzli, Patriot, Artillery, Scorpion, Captain, Furtif, Nuke.
Non-Key War Techs: Air Freedom, Scud, Metal Knight, Destroyer, Shooter, Predator, Apache, Eagle, Falcon.
As you can see, all the Expansion units are considered to be Key Units, while only some of the War units can be considered as Key units and the rest are Non-Key units. The general rule for success in Metal Knights is for a player to first expand to the point at which he is confident enough to go to war and only then to begin a war. Therefore, a player should buy his Expansion Universities first and his War Universities second.
*Did you know*
- When playing a map with shipwrecks enabled you shouldn't tech past the shark, as you will discover the other sea techs in the wrecks as you collect them!
- In most games it is not necessary to tech above the Herc for air techs (unless nukes are enabled) and the artillary for ground techs (money is usually better spent on expansion rather than on higher techs)!
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Military Factories are the lifeline of just about every successful campaign. Without it, you will be stuck with chaining your units around the map and will be forced to wait for reinforcements when in combat situations. Careful use of these facilities is a must as they will aid with continued expansion strategies as well as combat tactics.
When you have a factory in one of your cities, it is imperative that you keep that city in your possession and to try and hide it from the rest of the players.
One way to attempt to hide your factory is to expand in a few directions to keep the opponent guessing where the factory is. Fortify a few cities around the factory, and put few porc's in some of the cities around the factory to help divert a possible attack to the wrong city. Should you have to porc up your factory, do it well, 15 porc's or more, and always build fortifications in your Factories.
If you have a factory chain heading towards your base, assume that it will be taken, and porc up your base. Protect some of these factories, but not all, so that they don't know for sure where they all are.
Factories that are very close to your base, that are no longer needed, should be ghosted (by raising the tax rate to cause the population to go below 900). Buy a soldier there first the turn before to retake the city when it ghosts and your opponent may never know. Additionally you may also want porcupines ready (loaded in a transport unit) to add to the reclaimed city. If they attack it without spying they may go through the entire cost to take the city only to find a factory missing, and income wasted.
*Did you know*
- If you have at least four porcs in a factory your opponent can't know how many porcs are actually in there by using radar. They won't know until they spy it with a commando whether it is 4 or possibly 50!
- You should avoid keeping Scorpions in factories that are under attack. They will be the first things that are wiped out!
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You can't get killed in a game before turn 4, however, you can be attacked and literally destroyed at any time by an opponent gaining entry into your empire and taking virtually all of your cities and mines away from you if possible. Rule #1 in any game is defend early, and defend heavily!
When defending, assume that your opponent will be able to take out 1 porc for every $50 they make, and don't forget about the possibilty of them getting a double turn, selling units they no longer need, income from newly captured (enemy) cities, and having resources that they haven't mined yet, and porc up accordingly!
The porc is your best base defense unit. No other unit (with the exception of adding a few patriots if you have the money to do so) will do, you should rely heavily on the porcupine! The rule of porcing up is to always have at least 1 more porcupine than the enemy can kill. Since it's impossible to know the enemy's exact capabilities, pack that base with porcs!
If you think you have more than enough porcs, add more! This cannot be stressed enough, underporcing is the single biggest error players make!
Your perimeter is sacred ground and no enemy should be permitted free entry. Do whatever you can to prevent the enemy from just walking in and doing as they please. Use flags in mines and cities to help slow down enemy assaults. Use fortifications in key cities around the perimeter of your empire, and don't be afraid to throw a few porcs around here and there as well.
Another defensive tip that can't be stressed heavily enough is, if you have cities or mines directly next to your base, porc them up just as you would your base, as these can serve as a doorway to your base, and if your enemy can take them over they have a handy spot to stack units making it easier to gain a very solid surround bonus (surround bonuses are discussed further in the Offense section) on your base!
Pay attention to the roads and farms that your enemy may use to quickly move ground units towards your base. You may want to destroy some of these roads and farms in an effort to slow your opponent down a bit. If you have artillery, then this may be the best unit to use since it can destroy as many as 11 roads/farms in one turn.
Flags are a great way to clog up waterways to slow down enemy advances, and can also be used to help protect your own cargos (a few strategically placed flags around a cargo means your opponent has to kill them first before being able to get a unit directly next to your cargo) however, this is mainly only a means to slow down your attacker (as well as to be a bit of a nuisance to them). Sometimes using naval ships like the scout to block narrow passages is useful, especially if it’s only a cargo you are blocking.
When deterring the enemy, your nearby units will become useful pawns. If they are expansion units, then expand as much as you can with them and then bunker them down inside cities and mines where you don’t already have flags and porcs. Transports and trucks should be better protected and placed in cities with fortifications and porcs when possible. You will need them to continue collecting your resources, and smart enemies will try to kill them whenever possible hurting you financially. Low defense units should be placed inside cities with forts and if possible ones with porcs since these units will be easily killed otherwise. You may even want to consider selling some of these units if they are no help at all. You can use that extra cash to buy more porcs.
There is no defense against nukes, as they will detroy everything within a four square radius (that radius being 4 squares up, down, right and left in a diamond shape). The only defense you have against nukes is to tech and use your nukes against your opponent before they can do unto you!
Finally, we'll touch upon the porcupine star (if you don't already know about it you'll likely hear about it soon enough), which makes your base completely invisible. Unfortunately, however, there are several shortcomings too. For starters, if a player has written down your co-ordinates, then they will still know exactly where your base is. Even if they haven't written the co-ordinates down, experienced players tend to remember the whereabouts of your base. In addition, while your base is invisible, the units inside it are not! So, any units you put inside can be seen by other players. The only exceptions are the furtif and the commando which cannot be seen by the enemy even with a radar. However, those units are far too expensive and valuable to be sitting inside a base. The last draw back to the porcupine star, is that it costs a bit of money to make. It will cost you 5 porcupines and some form of transport to take them to their positions. In MK, games are won or lost over a few dollars, thus, veteran players don't really do the porcupine star.
However, if you must endulge in the use of the proc star, you can find the configuration for making it on Genie's Lamp!
Also be sure to defend your units themselves, especially transport units (hercule, cargo, transports). Whenever possible put them in a city and unload the units they carry. Put a porc in a city with a transport unit. Put patriots in hercs while flying in hostile territory.
Long range units cannot attack a unit that is adjacent to them (including the patriot). In addition, they cannot counterattack against units that have attacked them (whether those units are melee or ranged units). For example, a hawkeye when attacked by a predator will not counterattack. On the other hand, melee units (such as the Grizzli), will only counterattack when they are attacked by another melee unit (whether ground, naval or air). However, there is one exception and that is the patriot. When attacked by enemy units it will counterattack no matter what.
If you capture someone's base, try to move all of the attacking units you used into the base (M31s, Grizzlis, etc...), both so that you can use them later on (especially if there is another player nearby waiting to attack your new base), and also as extra defense in the base. They are easier to kill than porcs, but they increase the base unit count and defense is defense.
*Did you know*
- If you put a few porc's in a city, and you fortify that city, the defense bonus of the porc goes from 200 to 240!
- If an opponent attacks a transport unit, all of the units inside it will also be damaged, and if the transport unit is destroyed, all of the units it's carrying will also be destroyed (making it a good idea not to leave units inside a transport unit if possible)!
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Although you can win a war without knowing where the enemy units are until you run into them, you make it very difficult for yourself if you attempt to do so. It is far wiser and cost effective to gain a measure of knowledge of where your opponents units are and what they are capable of.
Having said this, it is also very wise and cost effective to confuse your opponent by showing them what you want them to see while doing something else it secret. There are a few very important tools that will aid you in the accomplishment of these goals. The first of these is radar. Another is the spying ability of the commando. The final tool is invisible units.
Radar is probably the most effective intelligence gathering tool available to a player. Without it, you can only see which cities and mines that your opponents own and the "topmost" of any any units in the squares outside of any cities, resources, or bases. Also, Porcupines and Sharks are invisible to a player without radar. Radar isn't perfect though. You cannot see Commandos or Furtifs with it, nor can you see which enemy mines have a truck assigned and which enemy cities are fortified and/or have a factory (which is where Spying comes in). Also, you can only see 3 or 4 of the units in a city, resource or base. The "Radar" section of the "Status window" shows enemy cities, resources and bases as well as regular units. Sometimes the icon for the city, resource or base will appear along with the units. If you see 3 units icons and a city, resource or base icon then it only means that there are at least 3 units in that place instead of at least 4. It does not in any way imply that there are only 3 units there.
A nearby opponent that you have signed a peace treaty with can thwart your expansion with a few well placed and otherwise invisible units. Without the radar, you are quite likely to find yourself forced to waste movement points going around invisible obstacles or returning to a place where you can go in another direction. You shouldn't just attack the enemy unit to get it out of the way in most cases. You would have to pay to break a treaty, which is highly counterproductive to your expansion rate and exactly what your opponent is hoping for! With a radar, you can spot enemy Porcupines and Sharks and go right around them without being slowed down at all. Obviously this is what you want to do. Note that there is no countermeasure against this use of the radar.
Radar may give you a clue as to the location of enemy factories/universities. This usage sometimes also gives you warning that your opponent is planning an attack and where. Take a look at the enemies cities. If you can see a city that is close enough for your opponent to attack you from if they built a factory and it is filled with units (even basic expansion units), that is a pretty good clue that they have built a factory there and are planning to attack you. Some slow witted types even put porcupines in soon to be factories in an attempt to protect their investment. This is a dead giveaway. If you see a city full of Porcupines within 14 squares of your base, you know that they are going to attack your base next turn. You can then either protect your base adequately or go on the offensive and take their city before their factory matures (and then protect that). The same goes for universities. If an opponent is close to you along a broad front and you can see cities with flags or Porcupines in them, chances are your opponent is trying to protect his most valuable cities.
In the early stages of the game when players usually only have one base and everything else is relatively lightly defended, it is a relatively simple matter to determine how well an enemy base is protected. Simply take a look at the statistics screen to see how many units that opponent has, and then use your radar to count up all the units that are outside their base. How many units are unaccounted for by this are the maximum number of units that could be in the enemy base. Some units may be invisible and make this count higher than it should be, but it certainly won't lower the maximum number. The same goes for cities and the like that are heavily protected and have at least three or even four units in them. With this information, you can determine whether or not it is worthwhile to attack the enemy’s base or go for their empire instead (or even whether it is worthwhile attacking at all).
On most maps, you can be in range to attack several different opponents before going to war, depending on where you build factories. However, you don't want to waste money and you want assured kills. So you need information about who is protecting themselves properly and who isn't. So you take a look inside everyone's base to see what is there. If there are 0-2 units in there besides the base icon, that is all there is and they are ripe for killing. You build a factory near these suckers first (assuming they have an empire worth conquering). If everyone has 3 or more units in their bases, then you need to use the technique outlined above to determine the maximum number of units in each opponent’s base. As before, you can then pick the target/s who are the worst defended and most valuable to conquer to build your factories in range of.
Commando's have the ability to spy enemy cities, resources and bases. If you attempt to move them into any of these and it is defended by units or a Fort, then you won't attack and will instead spy the location. Spying is relatively ineffective against resources, because you can use radar to tell what is in there for up to four units anyhow and the resource screen only flashes up for a second (units are not displayed on the resource screen, so it is irrelevant).
With this spying ability, Commando's can be highly useful. They are the ultimate backup to the intelligence gathering powers of Radar. Once you have determined that now is a good time to attack with your Radar, you use Commandos anywhere that additional information would be helpful in taking out your opponent. In some cases, you'll only use the one Commando to spy out the cities on the way to the enemy base and the enemy base itself. In other cases, it will be necessary to plow through the defences of a fully prepared opponent. In these cases, you will probably need one commando per attack group to scout out enemy cities.
As far as countermeasures go, there is only one way to stop a Commando from spying your cities and bases. Find it and kill it or stop it from getting anywhere near it's target. The information the Commando garners is of a highly specific nature and cannot be confused. It is however, very local in nature. It actually has to be there doing it's thing to get the information and there must be war between you and your opponent for him to accomplish this, so you can freely blow away the Commando (even though they are invisible, if you use a long range unit to target every square that a Commando could possibly be, you'll get it eventually).
When spied upon the city information window comes up and you can get a lot of information. First and foremost, you can see what is actually in the city. At least the first seven units anyway. Beyond that, you can get a pretty good estimate, because the scroll bar for the units is stuck so you just can't use it... To determine how many units are actually there, just estimate how many times the scrolly bit would fit into the full length of the scroll bar and multiply that by 7. Finally, you can take a look at the pretty picture at the top of the screen to see if there is a factory, fort, university, bank and/or farm in the city.
When you spy an enemy base, you get some very useful information indeed. You can see exactly how much money they have in their budget and whether or not they have bought radar (look for the radar in the pretty picture). However, the best part is that you can swap between the various tabs in the window and see what technologies your opponent has learnt as well as being able to estimate how many units your opponent has in his base (both of these things are done by estimation with the scroll bar as with cities)! If your opponent has technologies that you don't, it may be a good idea to attack their cities until you can find it instead of trying to take their base (which could leave you open to another enemy).
Invisible units offer you three primary advantages in an attack against your enemies. The first thing you can do is deploy invisible units in surprising places. The only unit that is very effective in this role is the Furtif as it is truly invisible and actually kicks a fair amount of ass in combat. A Furtif placed where an enemy transportation unit can run into it can be very useful. It is also very hard to plan a proper attack when half the enemy units are invisible Furtifs. Simply put, they could be anywhere! On the one hand, they could be blocking your attack routes. On the other hand, they could be parked somewhere within attack range of your base, just waiting for the chance to roar in and blow your inadequate defenses away... With enough money to field this highly dangerous unit, you can pull of some really sneaky stuff.
The second thing you can do is put your invisible units in really surprising places. Just think about what happens to an opponent you makes a drive right at your base because it appears to be virtually undefended, only to find it filled with Furtifs and/or Commandos (if your feeling really poor). If you are lucky, he will have blown all his money on that effort and you can then turn on him and destroy his units with ease.
The third thing you can do with invisible units is to simply have some. If your opponent can't see all your units, he will have to assume that your bases are more heavily protected than they actually are. Because of this, you may survive another round as they wait to get more power.
The Shark is also invisible to an opponent until that opponent buys radar. With luck and skill, you can place sharks in positions that force an opponent to waste the movement of expansion units while doing nothing to your own expansion.
One expample of this is to go up a river collecting wrecks and then stop at a bridge near enemy territory. As you opponent can't see you, he may try to move a transport across the bridge only to find an invisible unit in the way and be forced to return (because his units don't have the power to destroy a Shark).
Another example of this is to place your sharks where you suspect an enemy cargo will attempt to go (when there are two ways the cargo could go). If your enemy heads towards your Shark/s he will waste movement trying to go around or be forced to go back the way he came.
While you're moving your transports through enemy territory, the patriots inside may have nothing to attack as they're often just there for protection. So, if you're within' range, aim those patriots at some farms and roads, ESPECIALLY roads that are traveled by transports and trucks to collect resources.
To identify which cities are fortified, and which are safe to invade, attack the cities with Long Range Units. One Artillery unit can identify ten unfortified cities and still make an attack. This will eliminate much wasted effort and movement.
There are two ways to attack an opponent's cities, resources or units. You can simply move your unit on the opponent's unit (your Unit will take the place of that Unit if it kills that Unit). Or you can use the ATTACK mode and your Unit will stay where it is after the attack, even if it kills the other Unit.
When taking someone's base, it is best not to do it when there's someone else nearby, who could kill you the next turn unless you can sufficiently defend the new base. Instead, try to take the base of someone who is only being attacked by you. Also try to take out the biggest threat in the game (if possible). Try to apply a sensible balance in your attack strategies.
Infantry units are the only units that can capture cities, resources, and enemy bases. You can win a game of Metal Knights without any other units at all (if your opponent is grotesquely incompetent), but you can't win a game without the Infantry.
Unless the kill is crucial, steal cities and resources of your enemy first, rather than going for the kill straight away, especially if it is down to just the 2 of you left. Depriving them of income can make a huge difference. Likewise, take cities from enemies the same turn before killing them (if you can use already bought units and the cost to you is nil) allows you to take advantage of the extra city tax you'll collect as you conquer them.
If you suspect your opponent of having Furtif's, use the Patriot that you no doubt have in your transportation unit to try and attack every square along the path of your Hercules or Cargo (you probably won't be using a Transport in a combat situation where expensive stuff like this is available). If an invisible unit like the Furtif is in a square, the Patriot will attack it and you can tell what it is. If it is not in a square, you do not lose anything.
When a Unit attacks another Unit and causes some damage to it, the unit acquires experience worth one point (represented by a star). If this unit completely destroys the opponent, it acquires 2 experience points. Those points raise the skill of the unit and increase its following performances by 5% (up to an increase of 40% with 8 stars).
When you capture an enemy university, the game checks to see if you have a higher or equal level of technology in the original field of the university (as compared to that enemy). If you do not, then you are awarded one level of technology in that field (ie. if you had up to commando, you would get the Striker but not the Tiger). If you do have a higher level, then it checks the other fields and applies the same comparison. For example, if both players have up to the Patriot in Ground Technology and up to the Hercules in Air Technology, then neither player would be able to steal more advanced technology from their opponent. But if one of the players had the Artillery technology as well, then no matter what kind of university the other player stole he would get the only technology he didn't have yet (ie. the Artillery). If your opponent has all the naval technologies and you have none, but the rest of your technology is the same, you will steal their naval technologies whenever you capture any kind of university from them.
The Surround Bonus is a critical factor when attacking opponents!
If the opponent's unit is surrounded, its efficiency is decreased. Its attack and defense power drop by 10% for each unit surrounding it. You can use any unit you like for surround; Porcs, hercs, flags and also cities and mines. Every unit counts as 1, so 20 flags would do the surround you need to get to 200%. Thus surrounding a City, Resource, Unit, or a Base will improve your attacking strength of your units. The Max Surrounding effect is 200%. So, 20 units (any units, cities, flags and mines) will give you the 200%.
When you sell a Transport unit before selling it’s contents the units that were in it end up in a "stack". This can be advantageous when attacking a fortified position or more importantly a base where you are forced to surround it with transports or hercs just to get that surround bonus. This is very effective when you cannot store the transport/cargo/herc in a nearby city where you can unload the used units. Moreover, the defendant will have to blast away each unit one at the time in order to get out of his stronghold. This can be done anywhere the transportation unit is sold, whether over mountains (herc), on an uncaptured city (infantry won’t take it if dropped on the city like this), and even the depths of sea (herc or cargo).
It is a good idea to keep a notebook by the computer to record the porcupines you've killed. For each unit's attack, write the number of porcs (or other units) subunits left. Once your attacks hit a porc with less than the full 8 subunits, you know exactly how many porcs remain, and their status as well. Now you can apply the minimum force necessary to take the base, saving yourself money. (There may be other units besides porcs in the base, such as flags, but they will usually be so weak as to not be highly significant). When you are taking 2 or 3 bases in one turn, efficient attacks become very crucial. Recording exactly what's left in the base makes this possible.
Once you kill the targeted enemy, you inherit their empire, which includes the good and the bad. You get to deal with all their cities, mines, units, cash remaining, factories, perimeter defense, and hostile neighbors. Be sure to defend the newly aquired addition to your empire (read the Defense section above) by porcing it up, then porcing some more!
*Did you know*
- If you double click on the world Map it turns on the radar view!
- You can load a soldier (or Panther or Commando) in a transport, move the transport next to an enemy city, then select the unit inside the transport and press the "A" key and then click on the city, to take the city over without moving your unit out of the transport!
- Each unit in the game is in fact a group of 8 sub-units. When under attack, this number decreases in proportion to the inflicted damage. If the number reaches zero, the unit is killed and disappears!
- You can actually see more than 4 items, in an opponents base or cities with radar, by viewing the base or city, then exiting the game (only if you are not the last player to play the turn), then re-entering the game and checking again with radar. Units in a base or city are "stacked". When you leave the game and come back the order of that stack is reversed allowing you to see the bottom half of the stack (which is equal to seeing 8 units instead of just 4). The same aspect applies to spying with a commando (which allows you to see 7 units in a base or city the first time you spy, then another 7 units the second time you spy equaling 14 units total)!
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Back to the top
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The following is a list of the units, their uses and capabilities, and cost.
Ground Units
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Flag
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Cost = $6
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University Cost = N/A
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Sale Price = $3
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The Flag is the only unit that cannot be made in a Base or Factory. In fact the only way to get one is to buy a Bulldozer and use the Bulldozer to drop Flags. Flags are mainly useful as a defensive strategy to slow down your opponent.
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Soldier
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Cost = $18
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University Cost = N/A
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Sale Price = $9
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This unit is the most valuable of the infantry units. It is a very cheap unit which makes it valuable during expansion when you need every dollar to buy more units to grab more cities and resources. However, when it comes to attacking your enemies, soldiers should be used only in very limited situations as they have a very low attack rating. It is a good unit to use for surround bonus, and a good low cost unit to use to step onto porc's left out in the open (as the porc and the unit you step on it with will both die).
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Alpha Warrior
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Cost = $34
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University Cost = N/A
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Sale Price = $17
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This unit is highly over-used by inexperienced players. The experienced player knows that the use of this unit is best reserved for attacks on fortified cities (using a good surround bonus only), soldiers, trucks, transports and other targets that aren't going to move very much and can't stand up to much.
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Bulldozer
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Cost = $25
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University Cost = N/A
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Sale Price = $12
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Bulldozers are an essential component of every player’s forces and you should have one with just about every transportation unit you use in the expansion stages of the game. As they can drop flags to protect cities that you have captured from the enemy they are even useful when you go to war. Bulldozers build roads, drop Flags and open up mines. Units don't get much more useful than this!
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Truck
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Cost = $24
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University Cost = N/A
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Sale Price = $12
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Perhaps the most important unit, many battles are won or lost on the use of this simple unit! This is the only unit that is capable of hauling resources from the mines to be sold in the cities. A truck has a load capacity of 50 tons. If used correctly, your expansion will be enhanced greatly!
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Transport
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Cost = $33
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University Cost = N/A
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Sale Price = $16
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The Transport is probably the most useful unit you will come across, excepting the lowly soldier, the workhorse bulldozer and the money grabbing truck. A Transport is used in initial expansion, and although it only carries 3 units, this is actually just about the perfect number for an efficient expansion.
In combat, a Transport is a poor choice for quick decisive strikes, but excels in a slow grinding offensive where the opponent has protected themselves well with Porcupines, Fortifications and Flags. In part, this is because a Transport has an attack value which can be used to destroy or severely damage a flag with its last movement point! Pretty valuable when you think about it...
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Porcupine
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Cost = $20
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University Cost = N/A
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Sale Price = $10
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Porcupines are the ultimate in defense. For only $20 you get a unit that takes at least 100 damage to even put a dent in it when put in a base! This means that you need a unit with at least 4 attack and a 200% surround to have even a slight chance of denting it. They are even tougher in fortified cities where they have a defense of 240! In fact, Porcupines are so tough that you shouldn't even attack them with anything less than a 6 attack value and a 200% surround bonus lest you make them even tougher. A note on a peculiarity of the Porcupine. When put in the open, the Porcupine becomes the most dangerous and vulnerable unit in the game. It is invisible until you buy radar and when you attack it from a range of 1, it will explode taking itself and its attacker out of existence. It counts as a normal unit when attacked at long range. If lucky, your opponent could move a transportation unit onto it and blow himself sky high with all aboard. However, it is more than likely that an intelligent opponent will already have Radar and use a Soldier to blow up the Porcupine (which costs less than the Porcupine so then you lose out).
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Panther
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Cost = $40
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University Cost = $80
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Sale Price = $20
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The Panther is best used for expansion only when going into areas that have a lot of cities together. They are best used in attack when moving in force into an area you believe to be lightly defended by the opponent. They can then use their 8 movement points to full advantage as they capture both cities AND resources. As far as attacking anything goes, a Panther is inferior to an Alpha Warrior due to it's increased cost (assuming you can reach what you want to attack with the Alpha Warrior and the two are equally available in that region).
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M-31
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Cost = $43
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University Cost = $86
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Sale Price = $21
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Very much the weakest tank available, it is still more powerful than the strongest Infantry available. Used at the right times, the M-31 can save (and make) you a lot of money over some of the more expensive units. For example, it can be a strong tool to back up an assault on a fortified area (it can destroy flags with ease too) with it's ability to destroy a Fortification in one shot. With the low price of this unit, you are able to utilize many more of these than any others. The nice thing about teching the M-31 is, when you do, you also get the Elf tech at no extra charge from the same university.
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Elf
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Cost = $50
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University Cost = $100
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Sale Price = $25
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The only advantages an Elf has over the M-31 is it's slightly superior Defense and much greater Speed. It does however, cost more, so only use the Elf if you intend to take advantage of it's movement capabilities to support a high speed advance or to attack targets that an M-31 could not reach.
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Commando
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Cost = $88
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University Cost = $176
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Sale Price = $44
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A Commando is indispensable for detecting Fortifications without the wastage of movement points or units. If a city is fortified you merely spy the city instead of wasting movement points or getting your valuable infantry blown away. It also saves you from having to "attack" every city that you suspect to contain fortifications with a more powerful unit before you deem it safe for your infantry to approach. Basically, a Commando is not used directly for combat, but to determine how you will attack and what you will attack.
Commandos can sneak around, and are very tough to detect. Try to have them sneaking around as often as possible. Consider moving a Herc 13 spaces and then dropping a commando off, and selling the hercule. They will have no idea that the commando is there. Move the commando without capturing anything until you are within striking distance of their base. Then play a double turn for a surprise win.
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Striker
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Cost = $57
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University Cost = $114
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Sale Price = $28
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When you Tech the Striker, you get the Tiger from the same university for free!
The Striker is a unit of limited usage. It has inferior attack and defense capabilities to many other units, is of low mobility, has only moderate long-range capabilities and is not particularly cheap. All in all, most players relegate the Striker to a 2nd line defense role in combat situations if they use it at all. It is even poorer in offense as all other long range units do more damage than it or have other desirable qualities. There are some rare desperate occasions where you may need to use a Striker, such as when you are short on advances and low on cash, and it will get the job done or if it's use is when you are attacking a heavily defended base and find that your close range units have left you with numerous damaged Porcupines to destroy and you are quite low on money. And then you check your monetary reserves and find out the only chance you have of buying enough units to finish off all those Porcupines is if you buy Strikers instead of Tigers.
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Tiger
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Cost = $67
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University Cost = $134
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Sale Price = $33
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The second cheapest of the long range units, the Tiger is a real workhorse of a unit. Even though it's range is minimal, it has a decent speed and is quite capable of destroying many enemy units and fortifications without taking any damage in response (you get it rather early and, compared to a Grizzli, it is quite survivable in a fortification busting role). It is, however a little underpowered when it comes time to destroy porcs (it doesn't supply it's own surround bonus, meaning that you have to buy more units and transports to get the full 200% surround bonus).
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Grizzli
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Cost = $70
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University Cost = $140
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Sale Price = $35
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The Grizzli is the workhorse tank of Metal Knights. Often, players will use it for everything from assaulting Fortifications to destroying Porcupines and may even use it to blow away Transports containing units. It is good because it's abilities lie in the middle in every way. It has moderate firepower, defense, speed and even a bit of air firepower to protect against aerial attacks. It is hard to say not to use the Grizzli whenever you can, because it is just so good. However, there are some situations in which it is not quite as good as other units.
For instance, it is probably overkill to attack Fortifications with it and if you do, chances are the Fortifications will damage your Grizzli in return! It is better to use Tigers (that can't be counter attacked) or a lesser Tank that isn't worth so much to destroy Fortifications.
Another instance: Using it in a static or defensive role. The Grizzli can move and is to expensive to use to defend cities and the like. You are much better off using it to actively attack enemy positions instead.
When wiping out patriot-filled hercules, try using close range ground troops. Grizzlis are very good for this purpose. Try using 3 hercs filled with grizzlis, then 1 hawkeye to wipe out the herc.
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Patriot
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Cost = $89
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University Cost = $178
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Sale Price = $44
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The ultimate defensive unit! It has the strength of a porcupine, very long range and can counter-attack anything that attacks it. If it has a higher defense value than the transportation unit that it is in, it will fight instead of the transportation unit. This is the only unit in the entire game that is capable of this. All other units that are in a transportation unit are highly vulnerable and will die if the transportation unit dies and lose as many units as the transportation unit does. Although it is too expensive to use in Bases or transportation units that are not going to be attacked, it is highly prized for its ability to protect transports from destruction when engaged in a long war with an enemy. It can even be used to protect a city instead of Porcupines when space is valuable on the transportation unit heading into enemy territory and you want to build a factory.
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Artillery
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Cost = $91
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University Cost = $182
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Sale Price = $45
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The Artillery can be highly useful. In extended battles it is easily capable of destroying several of an enemies farms and roads (high movement) and then finishing off with a high powered attack that can destroy a Fortification, a Tiger or any lesser unit in one unaided shot with high regularity. However, like most Long Range units, the Artillery is highly vulnerable to counterattack. Attacking a Patriot defended square with it is the next thing to suicide. You may hurt the Patriot, but unless the Artillery is protected by a Fortification, the chances are very high that it will be destroyed. Also, if your opponent is able to mount a counteroffensive that can attack your Artillery, they will probably destroy them.
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Air Freedom
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Cost = $90
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University Cost = $180
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Sale Price = $45
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The AirFreedom is best used in offensive situations where it's movement and range can get it into position to blow away unsuspecting Hercules and the like. In situations where there is a no or a very low surround bonus, the AirFreedom is also worth it's price as it's ability to destroy a Hercules is 1 in 6 better than that of the Hawkeye. When that Hercules is in the open, the AirFreedom will always kill at least 2 units, instead of the chance the Hawkeye has that it will do absolutely nothing.
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Scorpion
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Cost = $104
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University Cost = $208
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Sale Price = $52
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The Scorpion is a mighty tank. Capable of destroying any ground or naval unit with one shot while still being able to stand up to the same, it has high speed for a ground unit and can damage some air units if it has a good surround bonus. It is, however, very expensive.
When attacking enemy porcs, especially in fortified cities, the Scorpion is the best thing as it can destroy them quite easily. It is also a very good choice for taking out Patriots as it has such a high defense that it probably won't be damaged much. In most cases however, the Scorpion is probably overkill.
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Scud
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Cost = $116
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University Cost = $232
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Sale Price = $58
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Scuds are pretty much there for one shot destruction of Porcupines, Metal Knights, Captains and anything else it can reach. The only thing you should never attack with a Scud (unless you are TRULY desperate) is a Patriot. You will blow away a sizeable chunk of the Patriot, but the Patriot cannot fail under any circumstances to destroy your Scud in the counterattack. And that is very much in the favor of your opponent. Even though it is slow, it doesn't count as a low mobility unit, so you can't use it from within a Transportation unit. However, it does have enough movement and range so that it can make attacks on positions far behind enemy lines (where even speedy Artillery cannot reach if the defense is strong enough). That extra 3 movement points can come in very handy... And of course, once again, the only thing with more firepower than a Scud is the Metal Knight or the all powerful Nuclear. Final thing to note about the Scud is that it is the second most hideously expensive unit that exists for the defense that it has. The Scud is ALL attack and very little defense. Let NOTHING get near it!
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Metal Knight
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Cost = $135
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University Cost = $270
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Sale Price = $67
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In the field of battle, the Metal Knight is quite useful as it can maul just about anything it comes across on land or sea without no more surround bonus than itself. Also nothing is harder to kill than a Metal Knight! The main usage of Metal Knight is as for wide front battering ram attacks, where you take as much as you can from an enemy and then keep it. This is another unit however, that is usually overkill for most tasks, especially given it's high price!
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Naval Units
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Scout
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Cost = $50
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University Cost = N/A
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Sale Price = $25
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The scout is the weakest of all naval units, and doesn't really have a great many uses. You can, however, load it into a cargo to drop it off in front of an enemies base, or where you believe they have built a factory (on coast lines), or surround enemy units as a fairly effective Containment technique.
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Cargo
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Cost = $60
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University Cost = N/A
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Sale Price = $30
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The Cargo is big, but has few uses relating to expansion. In this role, it is best used to transport a Soldier or two to a distant shore where the soldier disembarks and creates a factory. Then you buy your Bulldozers, Trucks and Transports (plus any other infantry you need) and expand across the land. It is also useful to transport Sharks to distant wreck sites and where Wrecks are more than 2 squares apart.
In it's more aggressive role, the Cargo is used to make lightning strikes across rivers, lakes and oceans at enemy bases and other heavily protected regions as they can load in enough units so that even if you can only get 2 Cargoes in for the surround bonus, you can still get 180%! In this respect, they are more efficient than the Hercules or Transports.
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Destroyer
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Cost = $61
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University Cost = $122
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Sale Price = $30
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Picture the Destroyer as the Grizzli of the sea and you have some idea of it's utility. In fact, the relationship between the abilities of the Destroyer and the Captain is almost exactly the same as that between the Grizzli and the Metal Knight. In short, use it for exactly the same purposes on the water, as you would normally use a Grizzli on the land (yes, it is weaker than a Grizzli, but it is cheaper too so you can have more of them).
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Shark
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Cost = $99
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University Cost = $198
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Sale Price = $49
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While an expensive unit, the Shark is the only unit capable of collecting Wrecks. On many maps, the wreck is actually the primary source of income by far in the early stages of the game. They are also one shot wonders. This makes it vital that you use Sharks early and well if you are going to get the money from wrecks as your opponents are more than likely to take it all and kill you easily if you don't.
As far as combat goes, the Shark is far too expensive for what it does. Do not buy Sharks purely for the purpose of waging war. But if you do have them out there already, don't be afraid to use them to confound your enemies by placing them in positions inconvenient for them and making surprise attacks. The best example of this is assaulting an enemy shark with enough of your own to surround and destroy it. Your opponents can't collect wrecks with Sharks they don't have! But remember that if even one unit survives, it can still collect wrecks.
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Shooter
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Cost = $108
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University Cost = $216
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Sale Price = $54
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The best use of the Shooter is to take advantage of its good range and high speed (especially with a cargo) to make lightning strikes to destroy highly valuable targets that you could not otherwise reach or to destroy huge numbers of enemy farms (particularly while still at peace).
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Captain
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Cost = $124
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University Cost = $248
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Sale Price = $62
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The ultimate battleship, the Captain is easily capable of blowing away any other naval unit. It is more effective to block your opponents expansion with one Captain than it is to try the same trick with 2 of any other naval units as it is much harder to kill and can go further than anything else on land, sea or air.
Consider using Captains for defense. They move 22 spots through the water, have 15 attack and 13 defense, and are very hard to wipe out from a distance. If possible try to kill a unit or two (flags work well) with them and increase their experience making them even harder to kill. This can be used even if the base is not next to the water, and may cause them to rethink their attack strategy.
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Air Units
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Hawkeye
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Cost = $61
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University Cost = N/A
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Sale Price = $30
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The Hawkeye is the unit you go for first and most often when looking to deal with enemy Aircraft. It does almost as much damage as the AirFreedom and is only 70% of the cost. As it is a low mobility unit, you can use it from a transportation unit which somewhat makes up for its lack of speed by comparison. Still, it is primarily a fast response, defensive Anti-Air unit at best.
Very weak defense means they need to be put with Porcupines, fortifications, or other units in a city to resist any attack.
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Predator
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Cost = $132
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University Cost = $264
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Sale Price = $66
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The Predator is an expensive piece of flying garbage. It is so weak that a Hawkeye can blow it out of the sky with ease. It is so expensive, and its attack so weak, that you best find other units to kill things with.
It does however, have at least one use. In allied games, any unit can capture an allied city. With a Predator in a Hercules, you can travel 32 squares in one turn! If an ally has set up a chain of factories across his empire at a separation of 25-30 squares, you can travel across his empire (selling the Hercules and Predators when they are down to 1 movement point) in great leaps and bound and attack an enemy on the far side of the map! Naturally, this can be a huge advantage. And there is no drawback, because there is no way that an enemy can follow the chain all the way back to your territory because he cannot duplicate your feat! A Hercules/Commando combo can only go 24 squares in one turn, making it impossible for your enemy to capture more than one factory along the chain in a turn.
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Hercules
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Cost = $103
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University Cost = $206
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Sale Price = $51
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The Hercules can be a very useful tool in both expansion and war. In expansion, because of its hideous expense compared to the Cargo and Transport, it should be used only in situations where it is more efficient (ie. more efficient than 1 Cargo or 2 Transports). Such situations are usually restricted to Desert and Snow where cities and resources are fairly spread out crossing restrictive terrain such as Islands, Skulls, Mountains and difficult river areas where Cargoes are slowed down too much.
In War, the Hercules is possibly the ultimate transport unit. It is able to carry a good number of units over any terrain for only 1 movement point cost, in any direction and for a large number of moves. This strategic flexibility put it light years ahead of the Cargo which is only useful on water and is slowed down when moving into waterfront squares and the Transport which can only carry a low number of units at a relatively low speed over fairly easy terrain. In war situations, the Hercules' expense is more than offset by its ability to aid you in taking big bites out of an opponent's Empire. Use it for lightning fast strikes against poorly protected areas only though! It can be wasteful to use it against heavily protected areas. Instead, use Transports to open the way and then send the Hercules past the front line and into the rear areas.
The Hercules is also useful when attacking heavily defended targets on land (where Cargoes cannot go remember?). If you can wedge 3 fully loaded Hercules around a target you can get a 180% surround bonus! It takes 5 Transports to do the same job (if they can even reach that far).
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Apache
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Cost = $150
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University Cost = $300
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Sale Price = $75
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I have only one good thing to say about the Apache. It is fairly versatile in that it can attack target on land, sea or air. Having said that though, it costs far too much for what it does do. An Eagle is far more efficient killing ground targets and is of comparable cost. A Falcon is far more efficient destroying air targets and is only $5 more. A Furtif has better abilities in every regard, is totally invisible and only costs 24% more. In short, the Apache is a total waste of money. Never use it unless you have money to burn or want to make a point.
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Eagle
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Cost = $170
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University Cost = $340
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Sale Price = $85
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The Eagle only really comes into use on very large rich maps. It's ultimate use is in conjunction with the Falcon, where it is able to come from a factory far behind enemy lines via Hercules, swoop in and blow away enough of a Patriot in one shot (without taking damage in return because the Patriot does 0 damage to air units!) so that a Falcon can blow away the Hercules that it was protecting. This trick is expensive, but almost foolproof (there may be more than 1 patriot on board or you may not damage the Patriot enough so that it can't defend the Hercules).
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Falcon
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Cost = $155
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University Cost = $310
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Sale Price = $77
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The Falcon is the ultimate in anti-air. Capable of utterly destroying a Hercules and all of its contents 85% of the time with no more surround bonus than itself, it takes an awful lot of anti-air weaponry to bring it down (and it better be Hawkeye's or AirFreedom's, because it will do horrendous damage to any air unit that attacks it and even Metal Knights and Captains don't have the firepower to harm it without a hefty surround bonus!). It's drawbacks are it's cost and difficulty to get. Usually, you will only see this unit on massive or very rich maps where everyone is pulling in thousands of dollars a turn.
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Furtif
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Cost = $186
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University Cost = $372
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Sale Price = $93
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The Furtif is the ultimate all-round air combat unit. It has high air and ground attack values, has the best defense, flies faster than anything but the Predator, is invisible and very comparable in price to the other air units (against regular opposition, why have a Falcon and an Eagle, when you could have 2 Furtifs for only $47 more) Well, it isn't as specialized as those two, but when you don't know what your going to need to use or you want to trick an opponent into thinking nothing is there and thus running his fully loaded Hercules into your unit, then the Furtif is the way to go.
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Nuke
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Cost = $1000
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University Cost = $2000
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Sale Price = $500
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The Nuclear is the ultimate weapon in Metal Knights. It will destroy everything within a 4 square radius (counting only horizontally and vertically, like a diamond shape). Also, any Cities or Resources in the area affected are returned to their natural state as if they had been Ghosted. As this is such an ultra powerful weapon it is has some very heavy penalties as well. Firstly, it is hideously expensive (of course!). Secondly, it has NO defense. If attacked by anything it will die (even if it has an attack of 0 like the Hercules or Cargo!). Lastly, Nuclear is only good for one attack Because of these two last penalties, it is best that you don't even buy a Nuclear unit unless you intend on using it right away!
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This section deals with tips which are very helpful, that pertain to various categories
Metros
Here is a case in which where understanding the pace of a game is vital. It takes at least until turn 8 to get a metro - if the game won't last that long (and on most modern maps they shouldn't), there's no need for them! The only time I ever make metros is when I use 2 of them for the 4 air advances between herc and nuke. The reason I only ever use 2, is that herc and nuke are key tech levels; I want the herc ASAP (well before turn8) , but the adv. air units are useless until the nuke. You might as well wait for metros to save you $676. If you are making a metro set it's tax to 0% and keep it there until it'll break 5k in population. Cases: fast game: None!; Slow nuke game: 2; Non-nuke game: None!
Here is a special tactic related to Farms and going for a Metropolis. If you have enough spare cash, you can buy 2 farms straight away in a City that you want to become a Metropolis. Because of the time it takes for a City to reach the Metropolis level, you will probably be producing quite a bit of food. Shortly after you got the Metroplis, you can expect the game to end. This is very interesting because under normal circumstances you would have to buy a 3rd Farm to feed the population of a Metropolis ($30) before the end of the game. In effect you are investing are putting in that $20 a little bit earlier so you never have to pay the additional $30. If you are trying to get several Metropolis then you could save yourself hundreds!
How to Use Odd Cash
When you don't have enough cash left to send out another full Combination, what do you do with it all? At later stages of the game you would spend it on Farms for Metropoles or on Porcupines for your Base or a Factory. In the early stages though, where every last dollar counts in terms of Expansion, using this odd amount of cash correctly is vital. My favored technique is to first buy a new Transportation Unit. If cash is left over after that, one would buy first a Bulldozer (if possible) and/or then an Infantry Unit. What you do with an empty Transportation Unit is send it as far as you can in a direction you want to expand. Next turn, you can send out a loaded Transportation Unit and transfer the contents to your first Transportation Unit. You are now able to captures Cities and Resources a full Turn worth of movement further away than if you had done nothing with that Odd Cash! The same rule applies in a different way to Transportation Units that you couldn't put an Infantry Unit and/or Truck into. You would fill the new Transportation Unit with the right units to look after the first Transportation Unit and if possible to expand in several directions from that point, you would then fill any spare spaces with other Units.
Odd Bits of Movement
Of course, if you have 0 Movement then you can't move at all, but if you have 1 Movement then you can move into squares that normally cost 2 or 3 points to enter. If you plan your movement carefully, you can take advantage of this fact in two different ways. Firstly, you can use the last Movement Point of a Transportation Unit to move into a 2 or 3 Movement point square. Sometimes you can't do this, because your most efficient line of travel in the next turn forbids it, but usually it is possible to take advantage of these "free" Movement points. Secondly, you can use the last Movement Point of a Bulldozer to move into a 2 or 3 Movement Point square. It runs out of Movement this Turn, but next turn you will be able to build a Road there and then move your Bulldozer back into the Transportation Unit which takes advantage of it. This can save you a movement point here and there. Finally, you can use this to get a final move out of combat Units or Infantry that are expanding unaided through a difficult area.
Low Mobility Units
Low mobility units have special movement restrictions. They have 2 movement points, but they cannot move anywhere except into or out of a Base, City, Resource or transportation unit. Also, moving out of these into any other kind of square uses up all their movement. Essentially, you can't move them very far without the aid of a transportation unit.
The Undo Option
If you make a mistake by moving on forest instead of grass, or sail into the coast by accident, or any other basic terrain move, then simple UNDO the move (This option is found in the menus on top of the screen). This is a lifesaver for many that play the game quickly or simply make the same silly mistakes over and over. There are several things that cannot be undone. You cannot undo attacks, invasions, mine or city captures, the collection of a wreck, and a bunch of other things. You cannot undo a move after you look inside a city, base, or mine. So make sure you are satisfied with the move before going on to do something, only to find that you want to change what you did.
Using the War Report
Non-Hostile Times: The War Report has a few helpful bits of info on it even when you are at peace. It tells you who entered the game since you left, who signed peace treaties and with whom, who broke peace treaties and with whom, who went to war and with whom, who captured who’s base, and finally who went to war with you which brings up to the next part.
Hostile Times: The war report tells you what the enemy is doing in regards to attacks and invasions. Attacks are reported as damage reports, telling you what type of unit was attacked and what happened to it. You are also told of any cities or mines that are invaded, if any universities are stolen, and if any commandos have been spying around.
Using the War Report to Hunt Down Commandos: The war report is very helpful in nagging those pesky commandos. Where it says you have been spied, it tells you what was spied. It’ll either have a city name or it’ll be your base. When it is a city, use the Search for City option found in the menus on the top of the screen and you’ll be where you want to be. Assuming the enemy didn’t sell or transport the commando away, it’ll be somewhere in this area. Use the following tactic to rid your land of these invaders.
Buy a Patriot from your base(that unit has 10 squares range to attack) and use the A(attack)button and then search all the squares around your base. If there is nothing on the square, you won’t see a window on your screen. But if there is a commando, a window will appear with the question: "Sir, are you sure you want to declare war on this player?" If you haven't made Peace or with the question: "You have signed a Peace ..." If you have Peace. So...in this way you can check if there is a commando in a 10 square range around your base. If you do the same by having the patriot in the Hercules, you will be able to check a 24 squares around your base (Hercules 14 + patriot 10 =24 squares).
Killing Long Range Units
If you see Artillery or Scuds, or any other high attack/low defence units, try to wipe them out. Use units with no range to prevent counterattack damage.
How to Deal with Crowders by Phred
This section discusses ways to deal with being crowded. Full credit for this particular section goes solely to Phred!
PHRED'S CROWDING PRIMER:
Crowding shares the spotlight with the double turn as one of the most contentious issues in MK today. There is no clear cut definition of crowding, with the most conservative definition being attacks on turn 0, and often ludicrous definitions involving placements 20 or even 30 hexes away with no early combat at all. The game itself prohibits a few actions as a method of controlling early combat. The 9 hexes between a base and the nearest unit placement rule, the no kills before turn 4 rule, and the no points before turn 4 rule all limit the offensive action possible early in the game. In the strictest gaming terms, everything else is legal, and therefore allowed unless the players in the game have stipulated other rules. Since the program only limits early combat in the 3 ways I've listed, everyone playing the game will run into close placement and early combat at least occasionally.
EARLY COMBAT IN SOLO GAMES:
The 4 prime motivations for close placement and early combat in solo games seem to be vendetta, ignorance, greed, and unbalanced maps. Vendetta isn't worth spending much time on, if someone is very pissed at you and decides they want to take you out of a few games at all cost, there isn't much anyone can do about it. Ignorance will get cured over time for the individual player as most new players quickly learn how difficult it is to start a war on turn 0 or turn 1 and still win. Since the lifeblood of the game is new players, cadets and recruits will always be around to start wars way too early for their own good. The greed motivation is here to stay as well since some players value HoF rankings over won/lost percentages. As long as there is a HoF, there will be players who enter games with the sole intention of killing someone worth lots of bonus points, winning the game be damned. As far as unbalanced maps go, if you join a game on a map where there is clearly one spot better than the rest of the map and a single player gets it without opposition, the game is lost. If you're not willing to fight for that spot early, you really have no business being on the map. Of course there are always games to be joined which feature early combat for all, and those games (there's almost always a 10 player game on a 48x48 map somewhere) the early combat is simply representative of the game type the creator wanted, not a limited battle affecting only a subset of the game's players.
In most cases, crowding is simply a stupid tactic because there are much better long range strategies available, or the crowder doesn't have the skill to pull off the low tech attack and still be a force in the game. Crowdees typically over react to the tactic and wind up losing because they concentrated too much on fighting and not enough on expanding. Being in a war from turn 0 is not an easy way to win. Unless the first blow is truly staggering, it can result in 4 turns of warfare expenditures waiting for the flip to turn 4 so someone can be killed. Spending money fighting while other people are spending money expanding and researching can easily put you in the hole if you're not careful, or if the real estate being fought over isn't rich enough to make it worth it. This is where, I think, most player's problem with crowding really lies. Being denied the opportunity to win the game by a strategy that is clearly destined to lose the game as well, is frustrating as hell. But, since crowding is not going away, player's would be better off honing their strategies against it and enjoying the different challenge it presents than railing against it and wasting all that adrenaline on something that's supposed to be fun.
EARLY COMBAT IN ALLIED GAMES:
There are more opportunities for crowding to be a quality tactic in Allied games. The obvious situation like tech sharing jumps to mind. Breaking up a tech swap for the shark on turn 0 simply wins games. Denying an enemy a resource rich starting spot can also make the difference. In an Allied game the crowder doesn't necessarily have to fend for themselves in the later part of the game, they have their allies to carry some of the load. This makes it much easier to get into an early battle and spend some of that precious early money on war instead of expansion. Early combat is very effective in allied play, plan for it, get used to it, use it to your advantage. Starting an early war with an opponent, while your allied partner expands right behind you unchecked can be a deadly strategy.
WHAT TO DO ABOUT IT:
Anyone who joins a game with players they don't know, places just their base and comes back hours later expecting everyone to have set up equidistant from each other and all signed peace is living in a fantasy world. Sure, sometimes it works out that way, especially on maps like BigMatchpak. Usually though, someone will take advantage of the lack of expansion aber of times you're crowded, but it won't keep it from happening. Once crowded, if you want to come out of it in decent shape you have to split your attention between 3 strategic goals: expansion, defense, and offense. This is a most excellent time to plan for and use a double if at all possible.
Finding a way to continue to expand is of paramount importance. If you do not continue to grow your empire while engaged in early combat you might as well surrender. Divert some of that peace money you wanted to spend on technical development to transport vehicles and soldiers. Avoid your opponents cities which are closest to you, and go after ones closer to his/her base, at this point they probably aren't defended and you get the added advantage of collecting your opponents taxes when you get the city. That's money immediately available for you to use instead of your opponent, plus you might stumble across one of your opponents universities. A Panther uni deep behind enemy lines can win the game at this point.
Defend key locations properly. A fortified city, while expensive, has a 1% chance of completely destroying a soldier. If you don't get lucky and completely kill it, you've got a good chance of wounding it sufficiently to take it out with another soldier and decent surround, or a panther with no surround. Flags at this point can also stop an early assault in it's tracks because your opponent probably doesn't have that many units to work with. Of course, a porc dropped right in front of where a loaded transport is obviously headed can be well worth the $36 spent on the porc and a sold transport, since radar probably isn't in your opponents arsenal yet.
Offensive tactics need to be well planned and pointed. Fast movement transport vehicles should be your primary target. If you can find one loaded up it is well worth spending the money on Alphas or Panthers to blow it and it's contents up. At this point in the expansion phase of the game, you need to kill it if you attack it. A soldier with 1 unit left can still conquer a city. Don't spread yourself too thin, you're better off flagging a transport off than killing it down to 2 units and leaving it and it's 3 soldier cargo free to roam inside your defense perimeter.
Most importantly, have fun with it. Sure you might not win the game as often, but if you beat off a very early assault and do win the game, the feeling of accomplishment is extraordinary. If you don't manage to win the game, at least win the 1 on 1 part of it the other guy started, then you won the "game within the game" that was created.
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This section is about tips for unregged players. The following is an exerpt taken directly from Mokeman's Tips Pages and full credit for this particular section goes solely to Mokeman!
"The best advice I can give to the average unregistered player is to get registered! Besides that, the best thing that can be said of unregistered tactics is that they are merely a subset of registered tactics. Unfortunately for the unregistered player, this subset contains the worst tactics available to the registered player and not the best. The main difference between registered and unregistered tactics is that an unregistered player should never buy any universities until it is absolutely necessary they do so. These necessities are:
- To buy Sharks in one turn so that you can get out there and capture wrecks. Don't buy the destroyer uni one turn and the shark uni the next. You are better served using the money to get more cities and mines and to send out trucks to pick up your accumulated resources. At some point, you will then be sufficiently rich to be able to buy the Destroyer and Shark universities at once. Another reason for this is you want to be able to get as many wrecks in a turn as you can when you start getting them. The reason for this is that, in the first turn, two of your wrecks will almost certainly turn out to be blueprints. However, in following turns you lose all your advances and so four of the wrecks you pick up will be blueprints and essentially worth nothing to you (unless you are ready to attack someone's base with Captains! A good player will not put his base where they can be attacked by Captains though). As each wreck is worth a little under $50 (thanks to the $0 blueprints), you are effectively squandering about $200 each extra turn that it takes you to pick up all the wrecks you can. Obviously, this is to be avoided at all costs.
- To buy Panthers with which to expand rapidly, but only in city dense areas. In other areas, soldiers will do the same job for less money if used correctly.
- To buy Hercules with which to expand. In general, you should wait to buy the Hercules until you have the Metropolis. In fact, for unregistered players it is a wise investment to leave approximately 1/4 of their cities on a tax rate of 0% so as to have as many Metropolises as you can. You can then pay $264 for the Predator/Hercules double university. You should buy any Hercules that you want to use the moment the turn starts in which this double university develops. For one thing, you can only buy the Predator from such cities and so must buy the Hercules from your base or a factory (which you can do on that turn only). Namely, buying all the advances up to Patriot and then buying the advances for Predator and Hercules which costs $904 if you build the 1st, 2nd and 4th of your ground universities in Metropolises (which is not easy to do...) If you use no Metropolises at all, it will cost you $1244. This may be even more expensive in the long run than taking the time to develop 3 Metropolises for every time you want to buy a bunch of advanced units later in the game. Buy the herc only if it will actually improve your expansion rates to do so or if you are on such a rich map that you can easily afford it and indeed must to keep up with the registered players (who will have the Hercules on Turn 2 at the latest if the map is that rich).
- To attack an enemy. Of course, you have to buy the technologies the turn before you use them and be absolutely certain that you buy the minimum level of technology required to get the job done. A lot of registered players will just keep buying technologies until they reach Scorpions and Hercules. An unregistered player should not buy these advances unless it will fulfil one of the points outlined above or they will be ready to make an attack in the next turn and absolutely require these units.
In general, the Grizzly unit is very much sufficient for the unregistered player to take out any target, so the Scorpion should almost never be purchased. In some very rare cases, however, an unregistered player may be in such a position in which he can only just reach a mildly defended base with a Commando riding in a Hercules. In such a case, it may be advisable to buy Scorpions to destroy any Porcupines defending the base. Scorpions have the same movement as a Commando and so can actually reach the base (unlike the Grizzly which would not be able to get close enough to even attack the base) and provide a surround bonus for themselves (unlike Artillery which is almost as strong as the Scorpion, but is a long range unit). This is an extreme situation which I just outlined, and even a registered player that got a kill out of it in that turn would have to consider themselves very lucky indeed...
If you follow these guidelines in purchasing your universities, you probably will not waste much more cash than utterly necessary and may just pull of a win against a half-decent registered player. On a moderate to small map anyhow... On a very large map, you will find yourself being forced to freight your units in from long distances to fight in an ongoing battle and will probably be pushed back by the superior mobility of a registered players forces (because they can have their new units appear instantly at the front and you will lose the ability to produce units as the cities containing the relevant universities are lost unless you purchase more. Which will put you behind again of course...).
Also due to that need for technology, an unregistered player must be constantly on the search for the oppositions own universities. They will probably be higher technology than the unregistered players own and they will also be within the opponents own empire, making them almost as good as a factory (sure you can only build one tech, but if you find say the Panther and the Grizzli Universities close to one another, you can really go burn a hole instead your enemies empire). Which brings me to the topic of maps for unregistered players. The correct choice of maps is very useful in helping you find enemy Universities. The kind of maps we are talking about here are the "pod" maps. The best examples of these maps are Airwar, Airwar 2, Antartica and RiverRace. Other maps follow the pod style to a certain extent, but on these maps, the placement of universities is at its most predictable. Then there are the maps on which you probably should not play at all. These are the big maps. The ones were you don't have a hope in hell of finding enemy universities amongst the hundreds of cities they own (and if they know what they are doing, they are on the other side of their empire from you anyhow....). You also wind up wasting thousands of dollars from buying your technologies over and over again (when you get in attack range of an opponents base usually).
The final difference between unregistered play and registered is that you must protect your empire even more vigilantly than that of the registered player. If a registered player loses a university, he has only allowed the opposition to gain a place from which to buy some units. But the importance of that same university to an unregistered player is vastly more. The unregistered player loses his ability to produce the unit from that university (at least in that area if he has more than one such university) until such time as he is capable of recapturing that university or is able to build a new one of the same type. If the university that is lost is of a high level, then this may very well be impossible and cost the unregistered player the game! To protect against this, the unregistered player must make every effort to ensure that he does not lose these very valuable cities. If this means that he must fortify and put at least one Porcupine in every one of these cities, then that is what he must do!
NOTE: Strangely enough, some people actually find this added difficulty attractive and so you may well find quite experienced players playing under unregistered aliases. I won't pretend to sympathize with that desire. In any case, be warned that there is a subculture of experienced unregistered players who will take you down a peg or two if you get lazy."
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This section is about MK Etiquette. The following is an exerpt taken directly from Genie's Lamp, and full credit for this particular section goes solely to Genie!
"This is a list of all the unwritten rules that exist in MK.
These rules tend to make the game a much more enjoyable experience for everyone.
There are a lot of players who follow most if not all of these unwritten rules,
especially the old breed of MK. My motto in this sense, has always been, "don't do
to others, what you wouldn't want them to do to you". In short, just like you
wouldn't want to be crowded, don't crowd someone yourself either!
No crowding in single-player games. There is no need for that. Ultimately it leads
to disaster and destroys the game for the both of you. And despite what everyone says,
there is no real protection against crowding. Because ultimately crowding is a
disruption. So, even if the person who crowded you fails, he might still cost you the
game, because everyone else was free to expand while you were busy spending valuable
resources getting rid of the goon.
No Locking out. Some players, even ex-Metalknights, tend to stay in the game until
after the time has elapsed - on purpose - and then end their turn normally, thus causing
the turn to flip and locking someone out. There are also those who don't do it
deliberately as such, but when faced with the situation would still refuse to hang the
turn and let you in. I once characterised this as a situation where the Bus driver should
or should not wait for that last person - who was late - running to catch the bus.
Everyone sympathises with that person, so why not here? Similarly of course, that person
shouldn't make a habit of being late.
Allow for a game to restart if something such as server problems, screws up the game
or causes players to miss a turn. Basically, if a problem occurs and one or more players
lose their turns, you should allow them the choice for a restart, unless the game has
progressed so much, that it would be impractical to start a new one. If the affected players
decide they are fine with carrying on, then so be it. Otherwise, you should respect their
wishes. As long as you know they didn't do it on purpose in order to get a restart! This
is also something where reasoning and common sense should be used.
That is, it's far simpler to restart a game when it's in its early stages rather than half-way through.
In peace treaty games, sign peace with everyone and sign it on turn 0 with
enough time for everyone else to come in and accept it. Learn to level the field and not
try to gain an unfair advantage. One of the reasons the "No peace Treaties" was introduced
was because some players would wait until the last few minutes of the turn before
accepting the other players' peace offering and thus, would start off turn 0 with several
100s of $$$ more than the rest of the players, which would give them a clear advantage. The
only way round that, was the introduction of a setting to disable peace treaties altogether.
Ever since then, very few peace games have been created. You will usually see peace games only
in specially arranged games between honourable players such as the Crap Game and the
Flame Game or any other House-Rules game.
Speaking of House Rule games; these are games whereby special rules have been introduced
that are not part of the game itself as such but are there to produce a nice,
interesting and most importantly challenging twist to the game, just to break away from the
norm. If you have no intention of following the house rules, then don't offer to join it!
You will simply end up ruining the game for the rest.
In allied games, don't crowd unless it's a special case. The cases where crowding is
acceptable in allied games are:
- When trying to break a tech-swap
- when trying to nullify a clear advantage because of the map, such as a 2v2 game on
Mixtery. If one of the opposing players has placed in the gold mines, it will undoubtly
force your alliance to do the same.
Otherwise allied crowding is just as lame as in single player games. Usually the need to
crowd in allied games was due to playing games on bad maps. A lot of the better alliances
have an understanding of "containing" but not crowding other alliances.
Don't make ANY form of deals in single player games with other players (or with other
alliances in allied games). Just play your game until your last soldier breaths out his
last gasp of air. Learn not to give up easily and more importantly, don't try to help other
players either because you are friends with them or because you happen to hate the other
person. Remember, how would you like it, if you were in that player's shoes!?
If you wish to surrender a game, go ahead, but make sure to porc your Base up
pretty well before you surrender, so that you don't give any players an unfair advantage by taking
over a lightly defended Base. Again, show respect for the rest of the players. Don't ruin
the game for them! No excuses, it only takes you a few minutes.
If everyone else is dead or have surrendered and you have also lost the game, then don't
just pile up 100 porcupines in your Base just to irritate your opponent. It IS a lame move
that serves no purpose whatsoever. Learn to take your loses like a man. This is only in cases
where the game has effectively ended. Otherwise you should try to fight until the end!
Don't hold the turn for hours on end just to wait it out for someone to leave. It might
force others to miss their turns, as real life can get in the way.
Don't hang the turn and then claim you had problems with your modem, just so
that you would get an undeserving double. Some players would hang the turn and
wait until the opposition would give up waiting and would then go back in to end the turn
properly and get an undeserving double.
If a player lost his connection while playing, let him come back on and play.
Especially when that player is the last one playing his turn. There are clear tell-signs
of when that happens. Don't cause that player any unnecessary grief. Just remember, that
could some day happen to you. My computer once crashed when Stonehead and I were hammering
to get in. Stonehead had the decency to let me in, when he saw that I had entered only for
my computer to crash only a few moments later. Yes, it was crucial as it meant he'd lose
the game. Yet, he exited the game and let me in, effectively handing me the game.
If you have a personal problem with a player, don't try to take revenge by stalking his
alliance. Don't try to get even either. Simply contact the
MKC, that's what it is there for.
If someone shoots your dog - whether deliberately or accidentally - would you go and shoot
theirs too or would you report them to the Police (=MKC)? I'd do the latter. Some players
out there unfortunately, feel the only way is to get even. No, it is not. In addition,
trying to get even, may spark even more attritions between the two parties and then it
becomes both of the players' fault and not just the one who had started it. Soon enough, more and
more innocent players get dragged into it, turning into one big mess. Ice600 and TheRuler
are two of the most notorious players for taking matters into their own hands whenever they
feel they have been wronged by someone, yet ironically, they are also the two players in
which most other players seem to have a problem with. Coincidence?
If all the players in a game agree to restarting (or ending) a game and having everyone
surrender so that no-one would claim an unjust/undeserved victory, then you expect everyone
to abide by it and not break their word. Staying "silent" while everyone else agrees to it
doesn't serve as an excuse either.
Never offer your base to others. It's unfair to the rest of the players. Always remember
that you wouldn't like to find yourself in a similar situation either.
If a player offers you his Base, resist the temptation and say a stern "no" to them.
The best way to combat such a pathetic display of morals is to say "no" to those guys
who wish to either favour someone or to get something in return, or even to think that
you would actually owe them, by offering their Base to you. Give them the middle finger and tell them to
porc up and surrender if they don't wish to carry on playing in that game.
In the case of resorting to Skyven deleting a game for you. Before you send Skyven a
request, make sure you have discussed this with the rest of the players and that ALL the
players agree to it! Even when you are winning the game, it might be the case that the other
player(s) may wish to continue.
Finally, if someone does one of the above and you are upset about it, don't try to get
even. Getting even will only make things worse. Flame his sorry ass instead and ensure that
everyone else knows what kind of a player he is. Just remember, ultimately we are here to
have fun. Yes, the intention is to WIN, I am one of those who fights until the end and will
try to pull every ace from my sleeve in order to win, BUT only as long as these "aces" are all
honourable means by which to play the game. At the end of the day, I like knowing I beat someone
fair and square and most of all, with a level playing field with my opponents having given their
100% to try and beat me. Don't you?"
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